13 December:
Cheeky Chaplain and his two companions travel down to Caesarea Maritima, about 130 km from Jerusalem.
The Apostle Paul would have known Caesarea quite well since he stayed here on return to Judea after his second and third ‘missionary’ journeys and, of course was imprisoned here for two years before his final journey to Rome. Our journey from Jerusalem was rather faster and more comfortable than his, but due to time constraints we were unable to visit Antipatris on route.

We entered the ancient city at its southern end with a visit to the much restored Theatre. It was here in 44 A.D. that King Herod Agrippa I was stricken with a heart attack after failing to correct those who hailed him as a god, and died five days later ‘eaten with worms’ , as recorded in Acts 12:21-23.
The Promontory Praetorium, a truly palatial residence of the Roman procurators of Judea with its rock-cut pool and broad vistas of the coastline, is the most significant Pauline site in the city. Cheeky Chaplain could imagine St. Paul, chained to the left hand of his soldier guard, but sustained by the Holy Spirit during his imprisonment here. He may have written one or more of his epistles as a prisoner in ‘Herod’s Palace’.

Continuing north from the praetorium, we viewed Herod’s splendid Hippodrome – more than 250m long with seats for 10,000 spectators, then on to the podium of the Temple to Augustus and Roma, built facing the once magnificent harbour on a natural eminence. Lunching here, pilgrims may gaze out to sea at the remains of the harbour breakwater. Its construction employed the innovative use of hydraulic concrete. The impressive remains of the High-level Aqueduct that provided the city with water may be examined at the public beach a short drive further north. This completed our visit to Caesarea and we returned to Jerusalem.

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Our last full day in Jerusalem. Walked the city wall, which gave a new perspective to many of the sites and places we have got to know.

After lunch shopping in Jaffa Street, Mamilla Mall and the Old city.

15 December:
Cheeky Chaplain and his two friends share a final morning in Jerusalem, then it’s off to Ben Gurion Airport for the return flight to the UK.

9 December:
Cheeky Chaplain and his old friend Robin left Luton Airport on the 9:00 flight to Tel Aviv on their way to Jerusalem. Four and a half hours later we reached Ben Gurion and Cheeky Chaplain was asked by officials the name of his father and father’s father! Then after taking a ‘sherut’ to Jerusalem, we reached our destination – a Self catering apartment in Yemin Moshe. A good dinner at a local restaurant set us up for a peaceful evening with stunning views of the Old City from our accommodation – a great start to the visit.

10 December:
Entered the Old City at 9:00 by the Jaffa Gate passed the Citadel and had an initial exploration of the many souks and passageways.

On to the Via Dolorosa and the Stations of the Cross – for me, the courtyard of the Church of the Flagellation, near station II and the Ecce Homo archway on the site of the Antonia Fortress, was the most moving as I contemplated the suffering and humiliation of our Saviour even though this traditional site is now questioned. The fifth station is understood to be where Simon of Cyrene carried the cross for Jesus.

On a first visit, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – the traditional site of Golgotha – takes a bit of getting used to, but beyond the marble and lamps it is possible to watch and pray in the simplicity of silence – and we were blessed with quietude since few tour groups were present.

 

Cheeky Chaplain experienced the Peace of Jerusalem with prayer in the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer on Muristan Road.
Standing in the Western Wall Plaza and looking at what remains of Herod’s Temple after it’s destruction by Titus in 70 A.D., the visitor may ponder on the enduring power of faith.
Lunch at the Cardo Maximus of Hadrian’s Aelia Capitolina, and a first look at Zion Gate, was followed by some down to earth supermarket shopping in preparation for the arrival of Edward (Robin’s son), the third member of our pilgrimage – who knocked on our door in Yemin Moshe at 18:30 after a safe journey from London.

11 December:
Today we spent some time exploring the Citadel at Jaffa Gate in the Old City and then revisited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Western Wall of the Second Temple.

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In the afternoon, it was down the Cardo and through Zion Gate to visit the Cenacle, David’s Tomb, the Church and Monastery of the Dormition and then the Church of St. Peter of Gallicantu.
The Church of the Dormition marks the place where, according to tradition, the Virgin Mary passed from this life in eternal sleep. Holy Eucharist, sung and sometimes in English, is very beautiful in this warm and welcoming church.
The present Cenacle building dates from Crusader times, but is believed to be on the site of the Upper Room where Our Lord shared the Last Supper with the disciples and where they received the Holy Spirit at Pentecost. The Cenacle very probably continued through the first century as the original church of Jerusalem.
Below the Cenacle is “King David’s Tomb” – highly revered in Judaism, and fully occupied by Orthodox worshipers in prayer and reading of the Psalms. Cheeky Chaplain was given the Hebrew priestly blessing – Birkat Kohanim (Numbers 6:23):
‘May the Lord bless you and keep you.
May the Lord make his face to shine upon you,
and be gracious to you.
May the Lord lift up his countenance upon you,
and give you peace.’
– and he replied with the first verse of Psalm 65, in English!
‘Thou, O Lord, art praised in Zion : and unto thee shall the vow be performed in Jerusalem.’
A very intense and moving occasion.

St. Peter’s Church – another must for the pilgrim to Jerusalem – is built on or near the site of the House of Caiaphas where Peter denied knowing Jesus three times before cock-crow (Gallicantu).

12 December:
Hired a little Fiat car!
Spent several hours at the Israel Museum until it closed at 14:00 it being the start of Sabbath at sundown. The Shrine of the Book houses the Dead Sea Scrolls – of particular interest is the Great Isaiah Scroll and those dealing with the rules of the Essene community.
The 1:50 scale model of Jerusalem in 66 A.D. is wonderfully helpful to Pauline pilgrims. The Archaeology Wing is superb and includes the Pilate Inscription from the theatre at Caesarea , the magnificent bronze of Hadrian and many other artefacts from the Roman period in Israel. This was particularly helpful on the eve of our visit to Caesarea Maritima.

 

On Monday Cheeky Chaplain sets off on the second leg of his pilgrimage ‘In the footsteps of St. Paul’, this time to the Holy Land.
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Do take a look at the Antipatris and Caesarea web-site pages and please add your comments (and prayers) to this blog.